IN-12B NIXIE TUBE CLOCK KIT

IN-12B-Nixie

After wanting a nixie clock for a couple of months I finally gave in while I was on my Christmas break. The first time I had ever seen a Nixie clock was while I was watching Tomorrowland, it was only shown for a few minutes, but that was I all needed to become obsessed. I scrambled to the internet entering in awkward search terms like “vacuum tube clock”, “orange number clock”, and “Tomorrowland clock” until I finally ran into a Google forum informing me about what it actually was. Soon after I headed straight to Amazon to look for one, I was extremely disappointed when I was met with price tags that exceeded $300. Ebay was a little bit better but I was still seeing kits that were $100+ and that was way above my budget. The 4-digit clocks were in my price range but I just had to have the constant motion of a 6-digit Nixie equipped with second digits. After keeping my eye out for a couple months I was ecstatic when I finally came across a 6-digit clock within my budget. I hit the “buy it now option” and nine days later I had the kit in my hands. I was very impressed with the shipping speed, from Hong Kong to Virginia in 9 days is very speedy!

 

Assembling the kit was challenging for me. There were a ton of surface mounted resistors and diodes which took FOREVER to solder to the board. The LED’s which mount behind the tubes were incredibly small and also a pain to handle. Besides that, everything else was pretty straight forward. The seller sent me a very helpful manual (Click here to download it) which contained detailed diagrams, pictures, and a schematic. It took me about six hours to assemble the clock (many troubleshooting instances included :p), this is definitely something you should set aside an entire day to assemble (unless you are experienced).

 

I am very happy with this clock! It looks awesome and I had an absolute blast assembling it. After using it for a little I have noticed that the programming is a little buggy, sometimes the clock will not set properly. Though, so far this is the only issue I have had with it and really this is a very small flaw. If I had to do it all over again I would definitely buy this clock kit! Click here to go to the seller I bought it from

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User Manual IN-12B Nixie Clock Kit_V6.0

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO FOR MORE

 

COMMUNITY IMAGES

Marty's IN-12B Nixie Tube clock2
Marty Purposefully mounted the 7 upside-down

Marty's IN-12B Nixie Tube clock Marty's IN-12B Nixie Tube clock1 Marty's IN-12B Nixie Tube clock3 Marty's IN-12B Nixie Tube clock4 Marty's IN-12B Nixie Tube clock5 Marty's IN-12B Nixie Tube clock6

5 Comments on “IN-12B NIXIE TUBE CLOCK KIT”

  1. Hi All;
    One piece of advice for others is, to Assemble from the Lowest height to the tallest height
    and do all of the same value, making sure that You have put them all in
    and have nothing left over before proceeding to the next value..
    I used to do assembly and testing for a living..
    I have some other hints..
    Insert what I have said, in between the given directions that You received with Your Unit..
    After You have the main Board assembled, before doing all of the checking..
    Mount the Led’s that go behind the Nixie tubes on their Stand off Printed Circuit Board,
    after doing that I used my Diode checking setting on my Meter, (my meter used a 9V battery)
    and check that You have the polarity correct, and Second (with mine) I got the Led to light up..
    Now check that Your +5 volts is working.. Do NOT do what I describe next until You have +5 Volts..
    Solder the two middle pins (one on each side) of the Stand off Printed Circuit Board and plug it into the main Board.. Do NOT solder it in !! And check that each of the units Led’s work..
    After this Works and You have the 140 Volts working, (I set mine at 140 Volts)..
    After You have the 140 volts working, Solder and Mount the two Neon Bulbs to their respective Printed Circuit Board, Do not Solder to the Board, Yet..
    But, go ahead and plug them into the main Board and check that they Both Work, then they can be soldered in, If they don’t work, find out why, before soldering them in..
    Also wiggling them a little might be needed to make them work..
    Now solder the rest of the Pins of the Mounting sticks..
    Do NOT solder in the Nixie Tubes, YET..
    Put in a Nixie Tube (with its mounting stick soldered in place) into its Printed Circuit Board.. Do Not Solder .. Plug it into the main Board in the Seconds position, Apply Power with some wiggling some of the Digits should light.. Wiggle until You can see the Number 7 Light, (It will have to count up to 7) and make sure that the Tube is facing the correct direction, once that is determined.. You can Solder in the Nixie tube itself..
    And Check that each Digit works, in the Seconds Position..
    Repeat this for each Tube, Plugging it into the Seconds position and checking each tube works..
    After getting all of the Tubes to Work, Plug them into their respective places
    and if there is a problem with a Digit or some of them, You know it isn’t the Tube
    or it’s standoff Printed Circuit Board, Since that has already been checked..
    Fix any problems before proceeding to the next Display unit..
    Some more Hints..
    When doing the Transistors, I did the 6 of them first, doing them as a group..
    I would put one in and solder the middle pin, then go to the next Transistor and do all six..
    Then wait for the last one to cool off before going back to the first one and solder in the top
    lead and then do the other remaining Transistors waiting for the last one to cool off..
    And lastly solder in the bottom lead on all of the remaining Transistors..
    when I use the word middle, top and bottom I am not referring to top and bottom
    of the Printed Circuit Board, but to like three sticks on the table..
    After they are soldered in check for shorts, either with a meter, or
    hold the board sidewise up to a light source and look with a magnifier glass
    and inspect for shorts, and fix any problems..
    If there is a short heat the two pins up for a second and then slam the board onto
    the table sideways there by causing the molten solder to be forced off of the two pins
    and onto the table.. The other method is to use either a solder sucker or solder braid
    to take off the excess solder.. I wouldn’t do this with the Tubes, though..

    THANK YOU Marty

  2. Hi All;

    I have a sort of Bad tube and the seller is making good on it..
    Anyway,I tried a little experiment, I pulled out all the other Tubes and only left in the Bad one, and Cranked up the Voltage..
    I got it to work at 170-172 Volts, which would be disaster for all of the other Tubes..
    And then I tried one of the other tubes and tried to see How Low I could go, it worked at 130-132 volts.. So, I plan on running mine at about 132 Volts and hoping that it helps it last longer..
    Just for Your Information..

    THANK YOU Marty

  3. Hi All;

    I just wanted to let Everyone know, I got in the New Tube from the Seller..
    So, He did indeed Send me Another Tube..
    On another note I found 132 volts Slightly Low, and so I found that 136 to 138 volts works good..

    THANK YOU Marty

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